OEM Integrated Bluetooth Telephone Install

Screen Shots

Part Numbers

1Z0 035 729 - Interface Unit (Now supports touch screen dialing on the RNS510 Navigation Unit.)
8P0 035 503 E - Bluetooth Antenna
3B0 035 711 B - Microphone
1Z0 971 813 62U - Covering Black or 1Z0 971 813 3AU Covering Ivory
N909 460 01 - Expanding Nut x2
N908 170 03 - Torx Screw x2
6U0 819 055 - Clip x2

Also required is a custom wiring loom.
Selection of cable ties.
Inline crimps & connectors detailed below.

My kit looked like this when it arrived-



Tools

10mm Spanner or Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Trim Removal Tools
Torx Bit and Driver
Sharp Craft Knife
Wire Strippers
Crimping Tool
Torch

Access to VAG-COM for coding

Method

You should disconnect the negative lead from your battery before commencing this job. A 10mm Spanner or Socket should do.

Firstly you need to remove the large outer trim that surrounds the radio and other switchgear. This can be done by gently pulling from under the lower section above the ashtray and levering at the indicated positions with a trim removal tool or similar.

Remove the four corner covers from the outside edge of the existing radio to reveal the four securing screws. Remove these screws.

With the four securing screws removed the unit will now slide toward you and pull out, be careful not to damage the Climate Control unit.

Release the large Quadlock connector from the back of the radio, it has a small latch on the bottom of it. Release the AM/FM antenna, this too has a small latch on the bottom of it. Fully remove the radio and carefully place it to one side.

Next remove the lower dash panel. This is held in place by 5 Torx screws, two visible under the lower edge, two hidden under the trims either side of the steering wheel and one hidden under the fuse panel cover.

Remove the fuse panel cover place it to one side and remove the Torx screw. Remove the headlight switch, this is done by pushing the knob in at the same time as turning to the sidelights position, withdraw the switch and disconnect the plug.

Remove the two side trims buy gently levering out with a soft trim removal tool or similar.

With all of the screws removed you should be able to remove the lower dash panel. For some reason Skoda don't seem to have left us much spare cable on the Diagnostic connector so you won't be able to get the lower dash panel out very far. You'll need to remove the Diagnostic connector from the lower dash panel, it is held in by three locking tabs. A flat screw driver can be used to gently ease these tabs and allow you to remove the connector from the lower dash panel. Place the panel safely to one side.

Next you'll need to remove the bonnet pull. This can be quite tricky, pull the lever as if to open the bonnet and you'll see a locking tab on the back of it. This tab should be levered out using a flat blade screwdriver and the bonnet pull should slide off. Underneath it you'll also find a screw which you'll need to remove.

Working in the drivers side footwell, near the throttle pedal you'll see a large plastic type of screw, that will need to come out. Next you'll need to move the long trim that covers the door sill, this is held in by spring type clips that fit into slots in the sill. It's a bit of a juggling act to get it out but you can fit the cable without pulling it right out - Be careful not to break it and have a good look with a torch before tugging anything.

With that bit of trim removed we can now turn our attention to the A Pillar trim and head lining.

The A Pillar trim is held in place by four small plastic grips. Starting at the top near the head lining, gently pull it away from the A Pillar, you may need to gently lever them by using a trim removal tool.

The overhead grab handle will also need to come off so you may as well do that now. Again, gently prise open the two screw cover caps and remove the two phillips screws.

Next to come off is the sunglass holder. Drop down the lid and look inside, you'll see two locking tabs, gently lever these with a flat screwdriver and and lower the sunglass holder. Disconnect the plug to the interior sensor unit if fitted.

Now you'll need to remove the interior light unit. Prise off the clear lens from the front leading edge, this will reveal two screws which you should remove. Lower the light unit and disconnect the connecting plug.

At this point you'll need to consider how much access you want to give yourself to route the wire to the microphone. I found that if you gently pull down the edge of the roof lining it is possible to feed the wire along the roof lining and then gather it up from the centre where you have removed the interior light etc.

Now we can think about mounting the Bluetooth Unit to the car. Looking under the drivers side seat (with it pushed fully back) you can see where the carpet is pre cut to accept the mounting bracket for the Bluetooth Unit. Using a sharp craft knife or similar, cut the small retaining parts of the carpet patches and the sound insulation underneath.



Now you are ready to start running the wiring loom. It's a bit tricky and fiddly but is possible to do this without taking the drivers seat out. Under the drivers seat you'll find a lift up flap of carpet which, when lifted, will reveal the plugs that connect the seat electrics. A quick rummage around in there should familiarise you with the fact that it is housed in a plastic enclosure. Ideally you want to get the wiring loom from under the seat (via the outer one of the carpet patches you removed) into this plastic enclosure and then through to the outer sill wiring loom. To locate the wiring loom in the outer sill pull back the carpet and sound proofing - you'll see it. It might also be easier if you remove the green outer part of the audio plug, this will make the part you have to feed through smaller.

With the cable in place connect the cable to the Bluetooth unit and fit the Bluetooth Antenna. Push in the two small black expanding nuts and position the Bluetooth Unit in place. Using the two new Torx screws, fix in the Bluetooth Unit.

With the unit firmly in place you can set the cable length and position, making sure it's not too tight but also not too slack. Use a couple of cable ties to hold it to the wiring loom already in the sill and run it toward the bonnet pull. At this point you can also fit the carpet cover trim to the unit using the two fixings. You may need to support one end of the bracket from underneath with a screwdriver or similar when you push the fixing in as it is a bit flexible.

The next part involves running the microphone to the interior light via the A Pillar. Feed the cable from the area of the bonnet pull up beside the fuse panel in between the dashboard and the door pillar. You need to secure the cable into the A Pillar, I did this using some cable ties and utilising some existing holes. It may also be useful to use a small bit of masking tape or similar to hold the cable in place at the top of the pillar.

There is a hole, not seen in these pictures, at the top of the A Pillar which is an ideal position to place the final cable tie and feed the cable through before passing it through to the centre of the car and down through the interior light opening. Do not tighten the cable ties yet.

At this point I would suggest fitting the microphone into the interior light unit. You will probably have a small foam 'blank' in the microphone holder which can be removed. You should note that the microphone is designed to fit in one way only and it is a very tight fit.

With the microphone fitted to the interior light you should to be able to gauge the amount of slack cable you will need to leave ready for when you come to fit the light back in.

With the correct amount of cable length ascertained, you can now pull the excess back to the footwell and coil it up in the area near the bonnet pull, it can then be hidden when the trim is re-fitted. Once that is done, pull tight the cable ties on the A Pillar.

Now you can refit the roof lining, sunglass holder and grab handle.

Connect the microphone to the microphone cable, clip the connector into the holder in the interior light and refit the interior light.

Replace the door sill trim and the bonnet pull. Remember the small screw behind the bonnet pull and the large plastic screw near the throttle pedal and ensure that the telephone wiring loom comes out from the top of the trim.

The next step is to route the wiring loom along the back of the Dash Pod and toward the head unit opening. I found it easier to remove the dashpod for this but it isn't entirely necessary.

To remove the Dash Pod pull the lower trim off by tugging it toward you, this will reveal two torx screws that hold the Dash Pod in place, remove these screws. You will need two thin flat 'tools' to release the upper retaining clips - I use two 6" rulers. Slide the 'tools' into the gap between the Dash Pod and the Dash Board at the places shown in the picture to release the locking clips.

With the dash pod removed you can now route the cable along the aluminium crash bar and into the area behind the radio. Pull the free ends of the cable through the radio opening and into the car.

Re-fit the Dash Pod, replace the two Torx screws and the trim.

At this point you can re-fit the door sill trim, the bonnet pull and any other bits you have removed - just leave the radio out and the radio trim off.

Making the Connections

The connections you need to make behind the radio are as follows -

CAN Hi - Pin 9 (Orange/Purple)
CAN Lo - Pin 10 (Orange/Brown)
Ground - Pin 12 (Brown)
12v Positive Supply - Pin 16 (Red/White)

This can be done by using Scotch Loc connectors or even inline crimps however I didn't fancy cutting my car wiring. This bit will add some more time and a little more cost but in my opinion is worthwhile.

I purchased some connectors and associated cables from a VW Dealer (SEAT/AUDI/Skoda will also be able to get them). Prices quoted are each.

1x 1mm CSA wire 000 979 134 (This will give you two terminals when you cut the wire) for the CAN Hi & CAN Lo male connections. (£0.97 + VAT)
1x 1mm CSA wire 000 979 133 (This will give you two terminals when you cut the wire) for the CAN Hi & CAN Lo female connections. (£0.97 + VAT)
1x 2.5mm CSA wire 000 979 226 (This will give you two terminals when you cut the wire) for the Live and Ground male connections. (£0.97 + VAT)
1x 2.5mm CSA wire 000 979 225 (This will give you two terminals when you cut the wire) for the Live and Ground female connections. (£0.97 + VAT)
4x 191 972 701 Housing (£2.78 + VAT) and 4x 191 972 711 Connector Housing (£1.91 + VAT)

Working with the Quadlock connector in the car, slide out the pink locking tab. Next remove the coloured wires listed above one at a time, making up the loom and inserting the terminal of the newly constructed loom back into the right position. To remove the wires use a folded paper clip or similar, pushed into the open end of the plug to release the barbs on terminal and then pull out the wire.

When you have the terminals removed from the plug it should look like this -

The male part of the black connectors can now be fitted and should like like this -

The process for making each connection should be as follows -

Strip the ends of the Bluetooth Kit wiring loom. Cut one of each of the yellow connecting wire terminals off with about 2 inches of spare wire and strip the ends of those. Using an inline crimp join the three wires together so that you end up with a male and female yellow wire connected to each wire of the Bluetooth Kit wiring loom, you'll need large crimps for the power and ground cables and medium size crimps for the CAN cables. Attach the female connector housing to the newly constructed loom.

Insert the Green audio connector into the Quadlock connector.

With all the connections firmly in place, replace the pink locking tab back into the Quadlock connector. If necessary use some cable ties to tidy things up a little.

Refit the radio, replace the four Torx screws and push on the surrounding trim.

By now you should have completely rebuilt your car and hopefully not have any bits left over. That being the case and if you are happy you can reconnect the negative lead of your battery.

Coding the car using CAN-BUS compatible VAG-COM

CAN Gateway - Controller 19

This controller uses Long Coding, recoding should be carried out using the Long Coding Helper built into VAG-COM. Select Byte 3 and put a tick in Bit 7 to enable Controller 77 Telephone. Write the Long Code back to the car.

Telephone - Controller 77

The controller soft coding should be set to 0000422

The following channels should be adapted with the values listed -

channel 128 - 0
channel 129 - 6
channel 130 - 2
channel 131 - 130
channel 132 - 0
channel 133 - 1
channel 134 - 0
channel 135 - 1234
channel 136 - 9
channel 137 - 1
channel 139 - 0

Thanks also go to Andrey Economov of Russia for his help and especially for the following information -

If you have a car fitted with the Multi Function Steering Wheel it is possible to modify the coding so that you can use the Mute button on the steering wheel to activate the voice dialling function of the installed telephone system.

Using VAG-COM open Controller 16 - Steering and select Coding 07.

You should see a 7 digit softcode which will be in the format 00xxxxx

The 4th digit from the right corresponds to the steering wheel variant. If you have a 4 spoke MFSW without the Cruise Control buttons it should be a 2. Change this to a 3 and that should convert your Mute button to activate the Voice Dialling.

Setup

Follow the guidelines for your telephone to add a Bluetooth device, the pass code is 1234 - You may note that this can be changed by adapting channel 135.

When you turn on the ignition the Bluetooth System will locate your telephone, momentarily mute the radio and give an audible confirmation tone. Conversely when disconnecting you will also hear a confirmation tone.

The Bluetooth System is controlled by using the three controls on the right hand stalk. The Bluetooth Telephone System should be covered in your Skoda Owners Manual, if not then have a read of the SEAT manual linked below, it'll give you a good idea of how to operate the unit.

SEAT Integrated Bluetooth Telephone Manual (11mb - Right Click and Save As)

Downloadable Installation Instructions - Thanks to Stu Worrall (896kb - Right Click and Save As)

Connecting Nokia Symbian Phones

Some of the newer Nokia phones such as the N95 use Symbian Operating System which doesn't seem to like interfacing with Car Kits in general. There is a workaround which will allow you to view contacts on your Maxidot or RNS510 if fitted.

1. Download Nokia 810 Contact Download Application for Nokia S60 3rd edition devices and install it using Nokia PC Suite.
2. Remove all pairing to the car kit from the phone.
3. Make sure Bluetooth is turned off on the phone.
4. Sit in the car with the ignition on so that the Bluetooth kit is switched on.
5. Run the Contact Download Application on the phone.
6. Follow the prompts to enable the Bluetooth and connect to the car.
7. The contacts will be transferred to the car, this may take a couple of minutes.

Sadly it doesn't provide the dialled, received and missed calls list but at least you'll have some functionality.

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